Crochet Cabled Headband/Earwarmer
Chunky yarn (I used 2 strands of Caron Simply Soft held together)
K hook (6.5 mm)
Size: Adult woman
Special stitches used:
Fpdc: To make Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc): Yo and insert hook from the front to the back around the post of the dc on the previous row. Complete as for regular dc.
Fptr: To make Front Post Triple (Treble) Crochet (fptr): YO twice, insert hook from front to back around post of indicated stitch, YO and pull up a loop, [YO and draw through 2 loops on hook] 3 times (fptr made).
Bpdc: To make Back Post Double Crochet (bpdc): Yo and insert hook from the back to the front around the post of the dc on the previous row. Complete as for regular dc.
Bptr: To make Back Post Triple (Treble) Crochet (bptr): YO twice, insert hook from back to front around post of indicated stitch, YO and pull up a loop, [YO and draw through 2 loops on hook] 3 times (bptr made).
Sc2Tog: single crochet 2 together: Insert hook into stitch and draw up a loop. Insert
hook into next stitch and draw up a loop. Yarn over, draw through all 3 loops on hook.
Chain 13
R1: Working in the back bumps of chain, sc in 2nd chain form hook and in each chain to end. (12 sc).
R2: Ch 3 (counts as dc here and throughout), dc in each sc across (12 dc)
R3: Ch 3, fpdc around post of next dc, dc in next 2 dc, sk next 2 dc, fptr in next 2 dc, fptr in the 2 previously skipped dc (this makes the twisting cable effect), dc in next 2 dc, fpdc around post of next dc, dc in top of tch3.
R4: Ch 3, bpdc around post of next dc, dc in next 2 dc, bptr around next 4 fptr (you may have to maneuver a bit to get to the 2 stitches underneath), dc in next 2 dc, bpdc around post of next dc, dc in top of tch3.
R5 to R22: Repeat Rows 3 and 4 (you can adjust size here by repeating these 2 rows more or less to achieve desired length)
R23: Ch1, turn, sc in each st across (12 sc)
R24: Ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 8 sc, sc2tog (10 sc)
R25: Ch1, turn, sc in each st across (10 sc)
R26: Ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog (8 sc)
R27: Ch1, turn, sc in each st across (8 sc)
R28: Ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog (6 sc)
R29: Ch1, turn, sc in each st across (6 sc)
R30: Ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog (4 sc)
R31: Ch1, turn, sc in each st across (4 sc)
R32: Ch1, turn, sc2tog twice (2 sc)
R33: Ch1, turn, sc in each st across (2 sc), finish off
Join yarn at other end (it doesn’t matter which side is facing) and work as rows 24-33.
Hide all ends.
Since I didn’t bother to make a button hole, I just found a button that would fit snugly between the sc stitches and sewed that to one end for the closure.
This YouTube video by Nutsaboutknitting is excellent for demonstrating the cabling process.
Chunky yarn (I used 2 strands of Caron Simply Soft held together)
K hook (6.5 mm)
Size: Adult woman
Special stitches used:
Fpdc: To make Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc): Yo and insert hook from the front to the back around the post of the dc on the previous row. Complete as for regular dc.
Fptr: To make Front Post Triple (Treble) Crochet (fptr): YO twice, insert hook from front to back around post of indicated stitch, YO and pull up a loop, [YO and draw through 2 loops on hook] 3 times (fptr made).
Bpdc: To make Back Post Double Crochet (bpdc): Yo and insert hook from the back to the front around the post of the dc on the previous row. Complete as for regular dc.
Bptr: To make Back Post Triple (Treble) Crochet (bptr): YO twice, insert hook from back to front around post of indicated stitch, YO and pull up a loop, [YO and draw through 2 loops on hook] 3 times (bptr made).
Sc2Tog: single crochet 2 together: Insert hook into stitch and draw up a loop. Insert
hook into next stitch and draw up a loop. Yarn over, draw through all 3 loops on hook.
Chain 13
R1: Working in the back bumps of chain, sc in 2nd chain form hook and in each chain to end. (12 sc).
R2: Ch 3 (counts as dc here and throughout), dc in each sc across (12 dc)
R3: Ch 3, fpdc around post of next dc, dc in next 2 dc, sk next 2 dc, fptr in next 2 dc, fptr in the 2 previously skipped dc (this makes the twisting cable effect), dc in next 2 dc, fpdc around post of next dc, dc in top of tch3.
R4: Ch 3, bpdc around post of next dc, dc in next 2 dc, bptr around next 4 fptr (you may have to maneuver a bit to get to the 2 stitches underneath), dc in next 2 dc, bpdc around post of next dc, dc in top of tch3.
R5 to R22: Repeat Rows 3 and 4 (you can adjust size here by repeating these 2 rows more or less to achieve desired length)
R23: Ch1, turn, sc in each st across (12 sc)
R24: Ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 8 sc, sc2tog (10 sc)
R25: Ch1, turn, sc in each st across (10 sc)
R26: Ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog (8 sc)
R27: Ch1, turn, sc in each st across (8 sc)
R28: Ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog (6 sc)
R29: Ch1, turn, sc in each st across (6 sc)
R30: Ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog (4 sc)
R31: Ch1, turn, sc in each st across (4 sc)
R32: Ch1, turn, sc2tog twice (2 sc)
R33: Ch1, turn, sc in each st across (2 sc), finish off
Join yarn at other end (it doesn’t matter which side is facing) and work as rows 24-33.
Hide all ends.
Since I didn’t bother to make a button hole, I just found a button that would fit snugly between the sc stitches and sewed that to one end for the closure.
This YouTube video by Nutsaboutknitting is excellent for demonstrating the cabling process.
I tried this and think it came out great. I modified the end of your pattern a little to accommodate a larger coconut button. (made a button opening last row) Excellent pattern. I will make again but wont use an extremely chunky yarn next time. My was definitely thicker than the picture here. Came out very nice but changed things a little.
ReplyDelete