Sunday, September 30, 2012

Crochet Cabled Headband/Earwarmer

Crochet Cabled Headband/Earwarmer






Chunky yarn (I used 2 strands of Caron Simply Soft held together)

K hook (6.5 mm)

Size: Adult woman

Special stitches used:

Fpdc:  To make Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc): Yo and insert hook from the front to the back around the post of the dc on the previous row. Complete as for regular dc.


Fptr:  To make Front Post Triple (Treble) Crochet (fptr): YO twice, insert hook from front to back around post of indicated stitch, YO and pull up a loop, [YO and draw through 2 loops on hook] 3 times (fptr made).
Bpdc: To make Back Post Double Crochet (bpdc): Yo and insert hook from the back to the front around the post of the dc on the previous row. Complete as for regular dc.
Bptr: To make Back Post Triple (Treble) Crochet (bptr): YO twice, insert hook from back to front around post of indicated stitch, YO and pull up a loop, [YO and draw through 2 loops on hook] 3 times (bptr made).
Sc2Tog: single crochet 2 together: Insert hook into stitch and draw up a loop. Insert hook into next stitch and draw up a loop. Yarn over, draw through all 3 loops on hook.
Chain 13
R1: Working in the back bumps of chain, sc in 2nd chain form hook and in each chain to end. (12 sc).

R2:  Ch 3 (counts as dc here and throughout), dc in each sc across (12 dc)

R3:  Ch 3, fpdc around post of next dc, dc in next 2 dc, sk next 2 dc, fptr in next 2 dc, fptr in the 2 previously skipped dc (this makes the twisting cable effect), dc in next 2 dc, fpdc around post of next dc, dc in top of tch3.

R4:  Ch 3, bpdc around post of next dc, dc in next 2 dc, bptr around next 4 fptr (you may have to maneuver a bit to get to the 2 stitches underneath), dc in next 2 dc, bpdc around post of next dc, dc in top of tch3.

R5 to R22: Repeat Rows 3 and 4 (you can adjust size here by repeating these 2 rows more or less to achieve desired length)

R23: Ch1, turn, sc in each st across (12 sc)

R24: Ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 8 sc, sc2tog (10 sc)

R25: Ch1, turn, sc in each st across (10 sc)

R26: Ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog (8 sc)

R27: Ch1, turn, sc in each st across (8 sc)

R28: Ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog (6 sc)

R29: Ch1, turn, sc in each st across (6 sc)

R30: Ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog (4 sc)

R31: Ch1, turn, sc in each st across (4 sc)

R32: Ch1, turn, sc2tog twice (2 sc)

R33: Ch1, turn, sc in each st across (2 sc), finish off

Join yarn at other end (it doesn’t matter which side is facing) and work as rows 24-33.
Hide all ends.

Since I didn’t bother to make a button hole, I just found a button that would fit snugly between the sc stitches and sewed that to one end for the closure.


This YouTube video by Nutsaboutknitting is excellent for demonstrating the cabling process.


1 comment:

  1. I tried this and think it came out great. I modified the end of your pattern a little to accommodate a larger coconut button. (made a button opening last row) Excellent pattern. I will make again but wont use an extremely chunky yarn next time. My was definitely thicker than the picture here. Came out very nice but changed things a little.

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