Wednesday, January 8, 2014

Crocheted Magic Glove Extensions

Crocheted Magic Glove Extensions

I love magic gloves, but they are so very short! I had an idea for making them longer by adding crochet bands. I couldn't find any patterns, so I just decided to invent something!



Using an F hook (3.75 mm) and some worsted weight yarn in a coordinating color, I made a foundation row of sc by pushing the hook through the edge of the glove. It went in fairly easily.


 Using the ribbing as a guide, I placed a stitch in between each rib all around the cuff (35 sc).
Join with a sl st to the first sc,
Rounds 2-9: ch 1, sc in same sc as joining, sc in each st around
Break off yarn and hide ends.

This can easily be made longer by adding more rounds. I did 9 total rounds, which added nearly 2 inches to the original length.

Sunday, March 31, 2013

Crochet Pencil Case Cover

Crochet Pencil Case Cover

I had several of these drink mix containers that I had been saving because I knew I could make something crafty with them. I also have a lot of writing utensils that needed a home. So I thought I could use the containers but dress them up a bit. The outer paper rips off quite easily!






With worsted weight yarn (I used Yarn Bee Soft Secret from Hobby Lobby but I found it to be quite “splitty” for crochet). Very pretty and shiny, though!



H hook

Five colors (I used pink, green, orange, red, and blue)

It’s basically a tube created by crocheting in rounds.  Nothing fancy, but by using some cool colors and a random stripe pattern, we get an unusual finished piece.

Instructions:

This piece is made in rounds that are joined. Break off yarn as needed following the stripe pattern:

1, 2: orange  
3, 4:  red
5:  blue 
6, 7:  orange 
8:  blue
9: red
10:  pink 
11, 12:  blue 
13, 14, 15:  pink 
 
16, 17: lime green 
 
18, 19:  blue 
 
20:  lime green 
21, 22:  pink 
 
23, 24, 25:  blue
26, 27: orange 
28, 29, 30:  blue
31: pink
32, 33: lime green
34, 35: orange

Chain 30, join with slip st to first chain to form a ring (being ever so careful not to twist or you’ll end up with a Moebius strip!).

Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in same ch as joining and in each ch around. Join with sl st to first sc

Rds 2-35: Ch 1, sc in same st as joining and in each sc around. Join with sl st to first sc.

Finish off and hide all ends. Then just slide it onto the container. Done!




Sunday, September 30, 2012

Crochet Cabled Headband/Earwarmer

Crochet Cabled Headband/Earwarmer






Chunky yarn (I used 2 strands of Caron Simply Soft held together)

K hook (6.5 mm)

Size: Adult woman

Special stitches used:

Fpdc:  To make Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc): Yo and insert hook from the front to the back around the post of the dc on the previous row. Complete as for regular dc.


Fptr:  To make Front Post Triple (Treble) Crochet (fptr): YO twice, insert hook from front to back around post of indicated stitch, YO and pull up a loop, [YO and draw through 2 loops on hook] 3 times (fptr made).
Bpdc: To make Back Post Double Crochet (bpdc): Yo and insert hook from the back to the front around the post of the dc on the previous row. Complete as for regular dc.
Bptr: To make Back Post Triple (Treble) Crochet (bptr): YO twice, insert hook from back to front around post of indicated stitch, YO and pull up a loop, [YO and draw through 2 loops on hook] 3 times (bptr made).
Sc2Tog: single crochet 2 together: Insert hook into stitch and draw up a loop. Insert hook into next stitch and draw up a loop. Yarn over, draw through all 3 loops on hook.
Chain 13
R1: Working in the back bumps of chain, sc in 2nd chain form hook and in each chain to end. (12 sc).

R2:  Ch 3 (counts as dc here and throughout), dc in each sc across (12 dc)

R3:  Ch 3, fpdc around post of next dc, dc in next 2 dc, sk next 2 dc, fptr in next 2 dc, fptr in the 2 previously skipped dc (this makes the twisting cable effect), dc in next 2 dc, fpdc around post of next dc, dc in top of tch3.

R4:  Ch 3, bpdc around post of next dc, dc in next 2 dc, bptr around next 4 fptr (you may have to maneuver a bit to get to the 2 stitches underneath), dc in next 2 dc, bpdc around post of next dc, dc in top of tch3.

R5 to R22: Repeat Rows 3 and 4 (you can adjust size here by repeating these 2 rows more or less to achieve desired length)

R23: Ch1, turn, sc in each st across (12 sc)

R24: Ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 8 sc, sc2tog (10 sc)

R25: Ch1, turn, sc in each st across (10 sc)

R26: Ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog (8 sc)

R27: Ch1, turn, sc in each st across (8 sc)

R28: Ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog (6 sc)

R29: Ch1, turn, sc in each st across (6 sc)

R30: Ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog (4 sc)

R31: Ch1, turn, sc in each st across (4 sc)

R32: Ch1, turn, sc2tog twice (2 sc)

R33: Ch1, turn, sc in each st across (2 sc), finish off

Join yarn at other end (it doesn’t matter which side is facing) and work as rows 24-33.
Hide all ends.

Since I didn’t bother to make a button hole, I just found a button that would fit snugly between the sc stitches and sewed that to one end for the closure.


This YouTube video by Nutsaboutknitting is excellent for demonstrating the cabling process.


Saturday, January 7, 2012

Crazy Stash Hat

This is a simple single crochet hat modified from the Men's Beanie Hat in my previous post. I used 35 different colors, a different color for every round!

Crazy Stash Hat

Various Worsted weight yarns (mostly Red Heart)

H hook

Body: Ch2

Rnd 1: work 6 sc in 2nd chain from hook, sl st in first sc to join (6 sc)

Rnd 2: ch 1, 2 sc in first st, 2 sc in each st around, sl st in first sc to join (12 sc)

Rnd 3: ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in next sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join (18 sc)

Rnd 4: ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 2 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join (24 sc)

Rnd 5: ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 3 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join (30 sc)

Rnd 6: ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 4 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join (36 sc)

Rnd 7: ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 5 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join (42 sc)

Rnd 8: ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 6 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join (48 sc)

Rnd 9: ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 7 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join (54 sc)

Rnd 10: ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 8 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc, rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join (60 sc)

Rnd 11: ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 9 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc, rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join (66 sc)

Rnd 12: ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 10 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc, rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join (72 sc)

Rnd 13: ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 11 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 11 sc, rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join (78 sc)

Rnd 14: ch 1, sc in each sc around, sl st in first sc to join (78 sc)

Rnds 15-35: Rep Rnd 14. Finish off. Hide ends.

Sunday, November 6, 2011

Simple Men's Beanie Hat



Simple Men’s Beanie Hat

Worsted weight Yarn

I used Red Heart Super Saver Yarns in Grey Heather (for the main color) and Royal (on rounds 16, 17, 21, 22, and 36 for stripes).

Length: 8.5 inches

Hooks: H & G

Body: With H hook, ch2

Rnd 1: work 6 sc in 2nd chain from hook, sl st in first sc to join (6 sc)

Rnd 2: ch 1, 2 sc in first st, 2 sc in each st around, sl st in first sc to join (12 sc)

Rnd 3: ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in next sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join (18 sc)

Rnd 4: ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 2 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join (24 sc)

Rnd 5: ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 3 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join (30 sc)

Rnd 6: ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 4 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join (36 sc)

Rnd 7: ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 5 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join (42 sc)

Rnd 8: ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 6 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join (48 sc)

Rnd 9: ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 7 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join (54 sc)

Rnd 10: ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 8 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc, rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join (60 sc)

Rnd 11: ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 9 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc, rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join (66 sc)

Rnd 12: ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 10 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc, rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join (72 sc)

Rnd 13: ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 11 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 11 sc, rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join (78 sc)

Rnd 14: ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 12 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 12 sc, rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join (84 sc)

Rnd 15: ch 1, sc in each sc around, sl st in first sc to join (84 sc)

Rnds 16-33: rep Rnd 15

Brim: With G hook

Rnd 34: ch 1, TURN, sc in the BACK LOOPS ONLY in each sc around, sl st in first sc to join

Rnd 35: ch 1, sc in each sc around, sl st in first sc to join

Rnds 36-38: rep Rnd 35. Break off yarn. Hide any ends.


Sunday, August 21, 2011

Catherine Wheel Bag

Catherine Wheel Bag

Size: 8.5 in w X 10 in h

Worsted Weight Yarn (Red Heart Super Saver)

Size H 8 hook

A: Turqua (rows 1, 10, 11, 20, 21)

B: Spring Green (rows 2, 3, 12, 13)

C: Shocking pink (rows 4, 5, 14, 15)

D: Dark Orchid (rows 6, 7, 16, 17)

E: Bright Yellow (rows 8, 9, 18, 19)

Special Abbreviation: CL (cluster) = work [yo, insert hook, yo, draw loop through, yo, draw through 2 loops] over the number of sts indicated, yo, draw through all loops on hook.

Make base chain and work first row in color A, then work 2 rows in each color following the stripe pattern.

Body: (Make 2)

Chain 37

Row 1 (Wrong side): With A, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc into next ch, *sk 3ch, 7dc into next ch, sk 3 ch, 1 sc into each of next 3 ch; rep from * to last 4 ch, sk 3 ch, 4 dc in last ch, turn.

Row 2: ch1, 1 sc in first st, 1 sc in next st, *ch 3, 1 CL over next 7 sts, ch 3, 1 sc into each of next 3 sts; rep from * to last 4 sts, ch 3, 1 CL over last 4 sts, sk tch, turn.

Row 3: ch 3 (count as 1 dc), 3 dc into first st, *sk 3 ch, 1 sc into each of next 3 sc, sk 3 ch, 7 dc into loop that closed next CL; rep from * to end finishing with sk 3 ch, I sc into each of last 2 sc, sk tch, turn.

Row 4: ch 3 (count as 1 dc), sk first st, 1 CL over next 3 st, *ch 3, 1 sc into each of next 3 sts, ch 3, 1 CL over next 7 sts, rep from* finishing with ch 3, 1 sc into next st, 1 sc into top of tch, turn.

Row 5: ch 1, 1 sc into each of first 2 sc, *sk 3 ch, 7 dc into loop that closed next CL, sk 3 ch, 1 sc into each of next 3 sc; rep from * ending sk 3 ch, 4 dc into top of tch, turn.

Rep Rows 2-5 for 20 rows.

Row 21: sc evenly across the top to make a straight edge. Break off yarn.

Hide all ends

With right sides facing together, whipstitch along the sides and bottom to form bag. Turn right side out. Join A at any st and sc evenly around the opening, join with sl st, break off yarn.


Handle: With A, Ch for desired length (leave a long tail for sewing)

Rnd 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across to last ch, 3 sc in last chain, turn work over and sc in the bottom of each ch across to last ch, 2 sc in last ch, join with sl st to first sc. Break off yarn (leave a long tail for sewing.

Sew the handle to the inside of the bag. Hide any ends. Line bag with fabric if desired.


Sunday, August 14, 2011

Circle in a Hexagon

Circle in a Hexagon Motif




Rnd 1: With MC, ch 3 (counts as dc now and throughout) dc 11 times in 3rd ch from hook, join with sl st to top of starting ch 3. (12 dc)

Rnd 2: ch 3, dc in same st as joining, 2 dc in each st around, join with sl st to top of beg ch 3. (24 dc)

Rnd 3: ch 3, dc in same st as joining, *dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc*, rep from * to * 10 more times, dc in last dc, join to top of beg ch 3. (36 dc)

Rnd 4: ch 3, dc in same st as joining, *dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc*, rep from * to * 10 more times, dc in last 2 dc, join to top of beg ch 3. (break off MC)(48 dc)

Rnd 5: With CC, ch 3, 2 dc in same st as joining, *hdc in next 2 dc, sc in next 3 dc, hdc in next 2 dc, 3 dc in next dc*, rep from * to * four more times, hdc in next 2 dc, sc in next 3 dc, hdc in next 2 dc, join to top of beg ch 3. (60 sts)

Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in same st as joining, *3 sc in next dc, sc in next 9 sts*, rep from * to * four more times, 3 sc in next dc, sc in last 8 st, join with sl st to first sc. Break off yarn. (72 sc)

Hide all ends.

In my example I used an I hook and worsted weight yarn (Red Heart super saver).

Size: 7 in (18 cm) side to side, 7¾ in (20 cm) point to point